Two rather heavily used surfboards. One is 2'3" and lacks a fin. The other is a 6'9" singlefin.
*sigh*
Here's the story:
So there I was (as all good stories should begin)...it was Wednesday and I was at Big Lefts.
Faces were 10-14ft and pretty consistent. Only about 10 minutes between sets.
Friendly mellow crowd with all the guys I only see in the summer time when we migrate back to Big Lefts from where ever it it that we all surf the rest of the year.
So I wait until the sun has set so I can score a macker and don't quite make it into one. Naturally the NEXT one is the bomber and is about to crash right on my fool head.
Ditch board and swim for depth.
BOING! There goes the leash...buh bye board....
UH-oh.
Getting dark.
Big-ish waves.
No board.
300 yards to shore a good 150 yards of which is about 12-24 inches deep over coral (read: pokey, sharp, w/urchins).
This was gonna suck.
I was lucky to find both parts of my former board after about 100 yard swim. At least I could paddle over the shallows on something rather than coming in with a load of echinoderm needles in my hands, feet and who knows where else. Just had to watch out for jagged fiberglass....
Took a long time to finally get in - quite dark by then - but got in in one piece whereas my J. Johnston wasn't so lucky.
Guess that's what I get for calling Burke a sponger....(see below).
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