Rise of the Planet of the Apes

What's making Lily happy?

Her eerily good, make up and mask free impression of a chimpanzee.

If you are a mirror and have been within a few feet of my daughter in the past few weeks, you already know this, but for nonreflective and unvitreous among us, here you are.

Two Words: Du ude !

A haiku for a glorious south swell:

Solid ten foot faces
Occasionally bigger
Go to work late dude

Not sure if this was actually a once in a decade swell as some media reports have said but it was (actually still is - supposed to hang around another day or two) a solid south shore summer swell.

A totally gorgeous Hawaiian summer day, light trades, mellow crowd of old dudes on longboards with the rare shortboarder/boogieboarder. Clean conditions. Mahalo mahalo mahalo.

I am a creature of habit and only surf two spots:
Under headhigh = Kewalo's
Headhigh and up = Big Left's

Big Left's will only break (with quality) a few times a year and man this was one of those lucky rare days.

About the same conditions that broke my previous board:


You know it's big when the Ala Wai Boat Harbor channel closes out:








Life is good.