A haiku for a glorious south swell:
Solid ten foot faces
Occasionally bigger
Go to work late dude
Not sure if this was actually a once in a decade swell as some media reports have said but it was (actually still is - supposed to hang around another day or two) a solid south shore summer swell.
A totally gorgeous Hawaiian summer day, light trades, mellow crowd of old dudes on longboards with the rare shortboarder/boogieboarder. Clean conditions. Mahalo mahalo mahalo.
I am a creature of habit and only surf two spots:
Under headhigh = Kewalo's
Headhigh and up = Big Left's
Big Left's will only break (with quality) a few times a year and man this was one of those lucky rare days.
About the same conditions that broke my previous board:
You know it's big when the Ala Wai Boat Harbor channel closes out:
Life is good.
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